Chino Hills residents living in the southern half of the 71 freeway finally have a decent joint to get their sushi fix at. Sushi Ten is conveniently located just off the Soquel Canyon exit, meaning you won’t have to trek to the Spectrum or through the hills just to have a satisfying Japanese meal any more. And we’re talking liberal portions, with tasty specialty rolls and friendly service—all the hallmarks of satisfaction when it comes to sushi.

To fittingly sum-up the sense on gets walking into Sushi Ten, the word “quaint” comes to mind. The dimensions are intimately small, but still with plenty of seating and a sushi bar squeezed in. Even though you won’t hear any piped-in music to backdrop the atmosphere, and there’s hardly much in the way of décor, the restaurant still boasts a youthful hip vibe because of its lively wait staff. Everyone speaks Japanese and they won’t hesitate to engage with short phrases, if only to add authenticity to the service. Most importantly, Sushi Ten wait staff really goes out of its way to welcome guests and make everyone feel at home.

Though the restaurant is still young (opened on April 1), Sushi Ten’s menu is pretty standard, offering miso soup, dumplings and other first course choices one might expect. If, for instance, you are with a sushi lover but you yourself are anything but, you can also opt for regular entrées, such as teriyaki beef or chicken and a selection of tempuras. What’s great is that the menu is diverse enough to accommodate most preferences.

The sushi rolls are the main attraction, but, depending on when you go, they can be hit and miss. Standard choices like Rainbow and Caterpillar rolls are available, but Sushi Ten has also created a robust list of specialty options (such as the Mr. Brian Roll and Senorita Rolls) that are as unique as they are delicious. One brilliant touch is how thin the rolls are cut—not only can more guests be served, but it’s rare that a given diner will be crying crocodile tears just to fit a morsel into his or her mouth. Word to the wise, patrons will have to be a bit patient, because the restaurant is still finding its groove. It can also get pretty busy due to its newness (still lots of intrigue surrounding it) and convenient location. All of this to say that it’s not uncommon for the rolls to come in varying states of construction, ranging from solid to crumbly; but this is a minor complaint so long as they are manageable with chopsticks—which they are.

Though Sushi Ten does serve beer, wine, and sake, it doesn’t have a full bar—so cocktail drinkers might be disappointed. Dessert is mostly limited to ice cream; however, the banana tempura covered in powdered sugar and chocolate drizzle is the perfect way to end the meal with a Japanese edge.

Sushi Ten satisfies on almost every level, and is an easy recommendation. While the restaurant has a few kinks to iron out, it’s really just mere trifles, nothing glaringly wrong here. Give it a couple of months, and Sushi Ten will find its stride and be a favorite haunt for sushi lovers both near and far.

Sushi Ten, 15463 Fairfield Ranch Rd, Ste. E, Chino Hills, (909) 597-1980. Open for lunch, Tues.–Sun., 11:30AM–2:30PM; Dinner Tues.-Thurs. and Sunday, 5:00PM–9:30PM; Fri–Sat., 5PM–10PM. Average Price for Two, $40. AE, D, MC, V

The dimensions of the dining area are a bit small, but not uncomfortably so. It may, however, feel awkward to share the area with the full bar, as two large flat panel televisions display the latest sporting event in the corner of your eye at all times. Furthermore, depending on the time of day, you may have to contend with golfers passing through. Other than the obvious foot traffic, the restaurant is fairly cozy and intimate.

Villa Amalfi’s menu covers the typical categories one expects to find at Italian restaurants, items such as pizza, pasta and seafood, as well as a few surprises, like sandwiches and breakfast options. Though the daily specials may include fish, regrettably, the seafood options are limited to mostly shrimp entrées.

To start, the fried calamari ($9.95) was served accompanied by a warm marinara sauce. The appetizer was well prepared and ultimately tasted just fine, but the breading had little seasoning, thus making the dipping sauce a must-have. Be advised: the calamari is portioned to satisfy two diners.

This was followed by a fresh and delicious Caesar Salad (small $3.95/large $9.95), and then the Zuppa del Giorno ($4.95)—in this case, minestrone. The soup was delightful because it wasn’t one of the over-the-top versions you’ll find at big Italian chains, but it was also odd because it was prepared with a chicken base instead of a vegetable stock, giving it a buttery flavor.

For mains, the Meat Lovers Pasta ($12.95), prepared with assorted meats (beef and pork) over penne, and the Fettuccini Alfredo ($9.95) were served. The Meat Lovers entrée was a hearty meal and can’t help but defy a hungry person to eat it in a single sitting, however, it was just a smidge uninspired—with a little imagination, the average person could probably come up with something very similar at home. The Alfredo dish, on the other hand, was very flavorful, with cream sauce that wasn’t overly thick (in fact, perhaps a little watery for some tastes).

Perhaps any of Amalfi’s shortcomings can be remedied by the level of service it offers. Truthfully, this is some of the best, most genuine service you will find in the Inland Empire. The server was more than happy to recite the available desserts and offer coffee as the meal wound down, and the bartender personally came out to apologize and confess when he didn’t know how to make a drink, and took directive well. All food was served hot to order, and in a timely manner. Villa Amalfi is one of the few places where the customer truly is king.

Make the trek off the beaten path to the Hidden Valley Golf Club for a meal, and you’ll see how good food, beautiful views and sharp service all make for an enjoyable experience.

Villa Amalfi, 10 Clubhouse Dr., Norco, CA, (951) 737-1010, Sun.–Sat. 6AM–8PM, Average Price for Two: $50. AE, D, MC, V

Interesting enough, Amata also happens to be a bit of a rarity in that it offers three types of Eastern cuisine: Thai, Chinese and Vietnamese. The menu definitely reflects its inclusive diversity, offering over 88 menu items, panning everything from noodle, rice and seafood dishes to Pho. In other words, diners interested in experiencing a variety of Eastern dishes will find a very happy home here. Additionally, the restaurant also tries to cater to the more adventurous palates—i.e., people who like spicy food—and thus offers a scale to varying degrees of bite, ranging from “not spicy” to “super spicy” for dishes with pepper. Don’t expect your tongue to melt or anything, though—super spicy will barely raise the sniffles for seasoned spice-eaters.

We ordered the Chicken Rice Soup ($5.95) to kick off the meal, which can also be ordered with shrimp ($7.95). This soup is a very simple dish consisting of chicken gibs floating in a tasty garlic and green onion broth with a bed of white rice resting at the bottom of a well-proportioned bowl. It’s a delicate taste, but the Chicken Rice Soup is easily a comfort food for many.

Drunken Noodles (Pad-Kee-Maw, $6.95) served as our main course and, according to the menu, is a customer favorite. Rice noodles are stir-fried with garlic, onions, bell pepper and fresh basil in a special chili sauce. We ordered ours with beef, though chicken can be substituted, as well as shrimp for an additional charge. The beef was served in strips instead of normally ground and the noodles weren’t cut, making chopsticks almost impossible to use as the long ribbons clung to each other tenaciously. Regardless, the entrée was still very flavorful and it was explained that the super spicy standard was lowered for Western tongues.

Dessert was handled quite nicely by the Sweet Rice with Mango ($5.95)—sticky rice soaked in coconut milk with mango slices fanning out on top. The serving size of this particular dish is large enough to satisfy three diners, so be forewarned. It’s not as robust as Western pastries or pies, but it is nevertheless a wonderful complement to the rest of the meal. The Thai Iced Tea ($2.00) is fairly standard, made with Thai tea, creamer and sugar—but it’s the best beverage to wash everything down with. Amata’s staff thoughtfully offered me the drink Thai-style, which is served without the cream, but I declined.

Service is on par with any less-Americanized establishments you can find out there. There’s no meal coursing and dishes are brought out as soon as they’re prepared. Amata’s wait staff are friendly and happy to answer any questions or concerns you might have, but won’t go out of their way to engage you. It’s nothing to take personally, though.

The success of any restaurant relies on meeting their guests’ expectations. At Amata you can expect good food at bargain prices, authentic dishes and a pleasant staff. And, like any good restaurant worth their salt, expectations are met here with flying colors.

Amata Asian Restaurant, 1689 W. Kendall Dr., Ste. H, San Bernardino, (909) 808-1799, Mon.–Sat., 11:00AM to 9:00PM, Sunday 12:00PM to 8:00PM. Average Price for Two: $40. AE, D, MC, V

Harry’s has visual appeal in spades. The small indoor waiting area spills outside to an open fireplace. Guests can also try the martinis, signature cocktails or wine while passing at the full bar. The bar is crowded but useful since, not accepting reservations, you can almost certainly plan on a wait.

The décor is pleasing, fusing retro patterns and colors with Eastern elements like lamps that mimic paper lanterns. Every table in the dining area is an intimate booth of varying size. Large parties are accommodated by the back row, where each booth can handle eight adults snugly, but not uncomfortably so. Larger parties will have to sit back-to-back or across at adjacent tables.

One unexpected downfall that wasn’t the case during its cocktail reception is that the noise level at Harry’s is incredibly loud, turning any casual conversation into a yelling match. Furthermore, with a high volume of turnover, the wait staff is single-mindedly intent on turning their tables rather than focusing on your comfortability. Needless to say, meals aren’t coursed, and one is apt to feel pressure to inhale the meal rather than tarrying over it.

To start, I tried the Crispy Calamari ($9.75), which arrived at the table with cilantro curry dipping sauce and breaded onions. The appetizer fell a little shy of the “deep fried perfection” the menu boasts it to be. The gummy calamari rings could have fried for a bit longer and the breading could have stood for more seasoning. As it is, the ramekin of sauce is a necessity for flavor.

Within minutes of having been served the appetizer, the first course arrived. The Country Caesar Salad ($7) was pretty standard except for powdered Parmesan substituting the common shaved variety. The California Fisherman’s Stew ($10), made with assorted seafood in a tomato and clam stock, was much more satisfying with its generous portion and robust flavor.

But overlapping is not the same as expedience. I was no more than ten spoonfuls into my soup when the main course was served. The Macadamia Nut Halibut ($19) was prepared breaded in panko and macadamia, resting on a bed of golden fried rice and complemented by baby bok choy and eggplant. A sweet vanilla bean sauce coated the center of the plate, giving the dish plenty of flavor—especially for people who don’t like the taste of seafood. The halibut is breaded so completely and the dish is so sweet that it’s easy to imagine eating pancakes if you close your eyes. The Asian Pacific Pescado ($17), fresh fish pan sautéed and stacked with pepper jack potatoes, did a better job at retaining its fish taste but it too was over-seasoned, making it difficult to enjoy.

Barely a quarter into my entrée and clearly still eating, the server returned to the table to offer dessert, reaching into her bistro apron to foist the menu on us. We asked her to come back later, which was the only time we were able to go for more than ten minutes without someone trying to clear our plates or prod us along. When we did order dessert, it was the Apple Cobbler ($6) and Chocolate Mousse ($6.75). Dessert was presented with handmade whipped cream, which is a nice touch that was adequately decadent and presented beautifully. Portions are hearty and can easily satisfy two to three people.

Yet overall, due to the over-aggressiveness of the wait staff (which in all likelihood is the result a mandate from management to turn and burn tables), the service was disappointing. It would be another thing entirely if the servers were at least conscientious of the situation, but the night I went take-home boxes weren’t even offered for the nearly whole plates of food still sitting in front of us.

Harry’s Pacific Grill, on the night I went at least, was a real heartbreaker. It has all of the sheen of a quality establishment, but ends up being the very thing most people are trying to get away from—hectic. If you’re in a rush and don’t mind rushed yet wonderfully presented, slightly mediocre food, then Harry’s Pacific Grill is not all that bad. But if you’re looking for a unique dining experience where you can take the time to enjoy it, you’d be better served going elsewhere.

Harry’s Pacific Grill, 8009 Day Creek Blvd., Rancho Cucamonga, (909) 463-1400, Mon.–Thurs. 4PM–10PM; Fri. 4PM–11PM; Sat. 10AM–2PM lunch, 4PM–10PM dinner; Sun. brunch 11AM–3PM, 4PM–10PM dinner, Average Price for Two: $65, AE, D, MC, V

Spaggi’s is located in an unsavory strip mall off of Route 66 behind a Del Taco. There’s nothing appetizing about its interior at all, in fact it’s off-putting. Sitting by the floor-to-ceiling windows in the winter is a mistake because they haven’t been altered from the standard storefronts that came with the space. The extra entrances and their poor insulation won’t stop cold from waltzing through the quarter-inch gaps surrounding the doors. If there can be said one good thing about the staff at Spaggi’s it’s that they’re more than happy to move your party, open tables permitting.

The décor is comprised of dark wood furniture and white linen dressing the tables. The floor is tiled and the walls are decorated in ostentatiously framed paintings, including a curiously out-of-place rendering of the Eiffel Tower—peculiar for an Italian restaurant. Since artwork dominates the view, it’s not uncommon to feel the sterility of a museum or a model home; the difference being that most of Spaggi’s environment is coated in a thick layer of dust.

An extensive wine menu is offered at the table and contains a diverse selection from around the world. The dinner menu is just as comprehensive, covering fish, steak, pasta, and fowl, and they offer heart healthy and signature dishes. While choice is typically good for family restaurants that are defining themselves as family restaurants, pared down menus usually benefit fine dining restaurants to showcase the Chef’s unique flair. Spaggi’s has approximately 55 menu items.

The Calamari Fritti ($12) appetizer was served with warm marinara and fresh lemon wedges. It was standard fare, rolled in a fluffy batter, but lacked any kind of seasoning. The Champagne Cream of Broccoli ($5.75) was competent, if not plain, but the Insalata Della Ana ($10), prepared with mixed baby greens, romaine, caramelized pecans and an assortment of fruit crumbled over with feta and dressed in raspberry vinaigrette, more than compensated with dramatic flair.

The entrées, regrettably, diminished the experience. The Spaghettini al Frutti di Mare ($21.75), which consists of assorted seafood tossed in spaghetti, wasn’t evenly prepared. The calamari rings in the dish were undercooked and rubbery while the pasta tasted overdone, as if it had been sitting in the pot too long. Mussels were served in broken shells, leaving my teeth and the roof of my mouth to find these crunchy, pointy surprises later. The coconut and macadamia nut crusted Halibut ($27) was also a conflict of taste. The sweetness of the crust and the mango topping clashed with the decidedly salty lemon-butter sauce, rendering it an appetite killer.

Even dessert didn’t come off as the reward it was meant to be. The crème brulée tasted like it had been made hours before and left on a shelf. The custard was warm throughout and had a strange tartness to its taste, though I chalk that last bit up to “creativity.”

The problem with Spaggi’s is that it apes real fine dining and not much more. Chef Henry spreads himself too thin, covering too many food choices to really focalize his talents; the décor is gaudy, confused and soulless; the wait staff, while prompt, represented themselves as unprofessional—they could be heard talking openly about their personal lives, dropping inappropriate vulgarities and swear words within earshot. Overall, an experience at Spaggi’s falls short of the fine dining affair it presumes to be.

Word to the wise: you’d be better served to save your money and eat at the Del Taco instead. At least there your expectations will be met.

Spaggi’s, 1651 W. Foothill Boulevard, Upland, (909) 579-0497, www.spaggis.com, Lunch Mon.–Fri., 11:00AM to 2:30PM, Dinner Mon.–Thurs., 5:00PM to 9:00PM, Fri.–Sat., 4:00PM to 10PM. Average Price for Two: $75, All major credit cards accepted.

Sitting on the corner of 1st and Harvard near the Claremont College, the area surrounding Tutti Mangia is safe and undoubtedly sees plenty of foot traffic as pedestrians window-shop the nearby stores. Oversized windows convey a curbside-bistro feel, allowing diners plenty of opportunity to watch the passerby as well. Inside, diffuse amber lighting pours down from tiny hanging lamps, making everything easy on the eyes. For the winter season, the décor is tastefully dressed in holly and other festive accoutrements, blending seamlessly with the black and taupe linen. Tutti’s space is divided into two wings—one for the full-bar area and one for the dining room. The back wall is finished in mirrors to give it an illusion of a far bigger space, and the ceiling has been raised and painted black for more breathing room. Patrons seem to benefit from such simple design choices, as I observed them deep into their glasses of wine or lost in conversation, without the slightest hint of tension. Space, apparently, goes a long way for peace of mind.

After promptly being sat, our server Elaine greeted us and recited the day’s specials. My companion and I started with Calamari Fritto ($12) served with warm marinara, lemon-horseradish and jalapeño-cilantro dipping sauces. If it’s offered, I always start with calamari to see what the chef will do with such a simple dish. In this case, the squid was cooked well in a flavorful breading that complemented each of the sauces. If I had to nitpick, the breading was a little thick and flaky—but that didn’t prevent us from devouring the entire appetizer.

Soup and salad came next. I ordered the soup of the day, which was Cream of Garlic ($8) and my companion went with the Insalata di Pera ($11.50), prepared with Bosc pears and tossed in honey-lime vinaigrette. The soup was expectedly smooth and flavorful, with a long crouton floated in the center that added just enough substance to the delicious broth. Meanwhile, the salad was generously portioned with a pleasant mix of Romaine lettuce, arugula and basil leaves topped with bleu cheese and candied pecans. Endives were inserted on the sides for convenient scooping of cheese crumbles.

Before the entrées were served, Chef Hugo Molina came out to glad-hand the guests and see how they were doing. He stopped by our table and chatted for a minute before scurrying back into the kitchen to bring out the next course. Besides being high decorated, Chef Molina brings years of experience to his “true Italian” cuisine. Knowing this, when the main course arrived, it was a nice feeling that he lived up to expectations.

The Agnotti Gamberi e Limone ($18.50) was a straightforward ravioli dish stuffed with succulent shrimp scampi and dressed in a lemon cream sauce. As the subtlety of the sauce allowed the full body of the scampi to come through, perhaps a little more lemon would have elevated the dish into something unique. The Cartucci Tutto Maré ($26), on the other hand, was pitch-perfect. Imagine an assortment of shrimp, scallops, calamari, mussels and salmon baked in parchment and resting in a white wine and curry sauce with a side of cappellini. Chef Molina even used Thai broccoli to complete the Eastern influence.

For dessert, we had Crème Brulée ($8.50) and experienced the only true flaw in an otherwise memorable dining experience. The crème brulée we were mistakenly served had just come out of the oven and was runny. Being true to the concept of fine dining, Tutti Mangia did not disappoint in making amends, taking the dessert off the bill. Afterwards, Chef Molina insisted on replacing the dessert with a properly made one despite our protestations. More than that, however, service throughout was of the quality you don’t mind paying more for. Food was coursed properly, drinks were always full and crumbing service was provided to boot, making for un’esperienza di divertimento!

Tutti Mangia Italian Grill, 103 Harvard Ave, Claremont, (909) 625-4669, www.tuttimangia.com; Lunch Mon.–Sat., 11:00am to 2:30pm, Dinner Mon.–Thurs., 5:00pm to 9:30pm, Friday and Saturday 5:00pm to 10:30pm, Sunday 4:00pm to 9:00pm. Reservations are recommended.

From a visual design perspective, Harry’s is nothing short of pure class. From the first steps inside to sitting down at your table, every moment is a feast for the senses. The waiting area expands outside where guests can gather around an open fireplace. The bar is alive with drinkers mingling or catching the game on mounted wide screen televisions. The dining room is lit by hanging pin lights that reflect off of the finished tabletops, casting some of the most flattering lighting to be found in any restaurant. It’s easy to imagine many impressed first-dates taking place here.

The décor is an interesting pastiche of nouveau and retro swank, with fluorescent lighting illuminating the bar and earth tones striping the seats and dripping off the walls and pillars. Hanging lamps do a decent job of mimicking paper lanterns for that Eastern touch Harry’s Pacific Grill tries to infuse everything with. Of particular note is that every table in the dining room is a booth. Couples and groups of four will fit comfortably, but larger parties may have trouble sitting together. While there are larger booths toward the rear of the building that could potentially accommodate seven people, these tables were not completed at the time of my visit.

As with most pre-openers, Harry’s did not provide full-service, but rather gave their guests the opportunity to sample the main parts of entrées and a few appetizers that were being considered for the menu. Harry’s Pacific Grill offers a little bit of everything, including nachos, burgers, shrimp and steaks. Seafood lovers will not be disappointed by the selection of fish as most of the popular choices (salmon, halibut, albacore) make an appearance here.

Alcohol enthusiasts will also enjoy their time at the full-bar with a solid list of martinis and signature cocktails. I tried the Japanese Cherry Blossom (made with vanilla vodka, sake, pomegranate liquor and cranberry juice), which was fruity and smooth. If my drink is representative of all of Harry’s cocktails, these bartenders know how to pour a stiff one.

For those who know of the sister location and Temecula and the great food it serves, there’s plenty of reason to believe that Harry’s in Rancho will be no different. Service was attentive and knowledgeable. Food presentation was mouthwatering. The environment inspired relaxation and comfort. All the ingredients to make for a memorable dining experience. Look for our full review in the coming weeks.

Harry’s Pacific Grill, 8009 Day Creek Blvd., Rancho Cucamonga, (909) 463-1400, Now Open to the Public, Mon.–Thurs. 4pm–10pm; Fri. 4pm–11pm; Sat. 10am–2pm lunch, 4pm–10pm dinner; Sun. brunch 11am–3pm, 4pm–10pm dinner

The layout of the City Broiler is fairly straightforward. The host desk partitions off the dining area behind it while the left and right wings serve as routes to the kitchen and the full bar, respectively. Both areas have glass panels installed to section them off and are surprisingly efficient at dampening sound. A sports game was on the television above the bar and it never distracted me once.

The decor feels east coast, with exposed brick walls and green carpeting. Black and white posters of celebrities shooting pool dot the walls. In fact, with the proper lighting, a pool table or maybe a card game or two would be right at home in this environment. The lighting, I think, was the weak link in the design. It will rain down on you like a supernova, casting horribly unflattering shadows everywhere. That bit aside, the atmosphere is quite pleasant. Tables are draped in linen. A wine list is ready at the table and the waitstaff are presentable and easy on the eyes. This is an excellent place to take your family.

The menu is reasonably priced at the low 30′s on the high end. There’s also a fair selection of seafood and land options, including sandwiches for both lunch and dinner. It’ll be very hard for the average diner not to find something that looks good on the menu or something filling, especially when most selections come with your choice of two sides. The taste, however, leaves everything to be desired.

First, there’s the bread, which was simply left on our table on top of a menu in passing. From its consistency, I’m pretty sure it was sourdough, but without the sour. It’s the kind of bread that says, “Hey, I’m bread. I get the job done, but don’t expect too much from me.”

Secondly, a coworker of mine recommended the City Broiler as having the “best calamari.” Since I’m partial to calamari, I had to order the appetizer ($9). This calamari is complex, so let me break it down in stages. First, it’s served on a red tortilla shell accompanied by marinara and a mango-papaya salsa in separate dipping ramekins. The squid is sectioned into rings and fried with a tangy breading. The calamari is well-cooked and the spices in the breading are pitch-perfect and will have your mouth watering with each bite. Had they stopped there, I would have been very happy. Unfortunately, someone decided that grated cheese would be a wonderful complement to squid. Then as the coup de grace, they decided to slather on some ranch dressing on top. I imagine that the chef who created these dishes actually hates seafood. In fact, this is the kind of seafood that people who don’t like seafood would eat. They’ll pile on the most garish flavors to disguise the seafood taste.

The soup wasn’t any better. I ordered a bowl of New England clam chowder ($5) and while it looked fine, it tasted like two cans of Campbell’s soup were poured into a large bowl and microwaved. Since whoever bought the cans neglected to buy the chunky kind, the kitchen staff cut up several stalks of celery and stirred them in to keep the one clam in the soup company.

The entrées were on par with the first two courses. My companion ordered the Macadamia Nut Crusted Mahi Mahi ($21) topped with mango relish. It looks good on paper, but that seafood-hating kitchen staff went crazy with the “crust” part and buried the fish under half an inch of breading. It might as well have been a slab of macadamia nut bread. My dish failed just as spectacularly. I ordered the Bermuda Triangle ($28) and like the ships that suffer its namesake, the flavor was lost at sea. This plate consists of a small lobster tail, three shrimp and three scallops accompanied by melted butter and cocktail sauce. The lobster and the shrimp were barely passable, but the scallops were prepared by someone who hates the world. I couldn’t bring myself to finish them.

Since I’m a completionist at heart, I forced myself to order dessert, hoping the creme brulée would take the sting out of the dining experience. No such luck. Even dessert was horrible. Apparently, the City Broiler prepares their creme brulée to completion, caramelized sugar and all, and then chucks it into the refrigerator until someone orders it. When someone does, the restaurant serves it as is with the addition of berries and fresh powdered sugar. It’s really weird to eat stiff, cold creme brulée.

The City Broiler is really an oddity. It’s corporate chain restaurant food priced at California casual prices dressed in family restaurant ambiance. Unless you’re one of those people who hate seafood, but want the health benefits, stay away.

City Broiler

12959 Peyton Drive.

Chino Hills, CA. 91709

909 627-9555

www.citybroilerrestaurant.com

Walking into Il Tiramisu is like coming home. I was immediately greeted by one of the friendly owners, Ivo Kastelan, who owns and manages the restaurant with his son, Peter. Between them, they have 30 years of restaurant experience and two of the warmest personalities you will find anywhere.

The restaurant is divided into two main dining areas, separated by a full bar with the open kitchen just behind. One side of the restaurant is suited for intimate evenings. The other side, fitted with longer tables, is mainly for larger parties. The décor is largely European, with glass sculptures and wine bottles lining shelves and walls. Elegant lighting streams down from pin lights set into the wooden ceiling and the floor to ceiling windows that face the street give the restaurant a curbside café feel.

The menu choices are varied enough to satisfy most diners, with different choices of salads, soups, pizzas, pastas, chicken, and steak dinners.

The wine list is also respectable, with a bevy of Italian reds and some other wines refreshingly from around the globe instead of just from Napa Valley. The list could do for more Italian whites, but Peter assures me that the list will adapt to include more whites as the seasons change. I ordered a bottle of Sonoma Cutrer ($9.00/glass, $36.00/bottle) and its spicy character was invigorating.

I started my meal by sampling the complimentary homemade focaccia and multigrain bread, which was a nice respite from regular dinner rolls. Next I ordered soup and antipasti. The Pasta e Fagioli ($4.00), Tuscan white beans with penne was perfect for warming up on a biting winter night and the Calamari Fritti ($9.00), lightly fried calamari, with fresh marinara and spicy lemon herb aioli made the mouth water without being filling.

Moving on to the main course, I ordered Ravioli di Anitra ($13.00), homemade ravioli, filled with spinach and duck breast and covered in arugula pesto sauce. The portion was not overwhelming to look at, but the succulent morsels of tender duck breast quickly sated my appetite.

For dessert I was sure to sample the restaurant’s namesake Tiramisu alla Katerina ($7.00), lady fingers soaked in coffee, served in a white and dark chocolate tulip shaped cup, topped with fresh strawberries. Destroying the presentation left me with regret, however, the taste was worth such sacrifice.

Service is punctual and attentive, almost to a fault. My glass was never less than a third full and my empty plate never stayed in front of me for too long. On the other hand, a different person asked me if I needed anything every few minutes, breaking up the flow of the meal. Depending on how high maintenance you are, this can be a blessing or a curse.

Il Tiramisu also offers monthly wine dinners. These consist of a four course meal with each course especially paired with the different wines from the vineyard showcased for the evening, with owners of the vineyard occasionally enjoying the dinner right beside you.

As my server, William, said, “[the restaurant] is what it is,” and he’s right. Il Tiramisu is not presumptuous. It doesn’t try to give more than it can offer. Though the staff presents very professional service, this is not the restaurant for adhering to the strict formalities of fine dining. Even the dress code is laid back. As Peter says, “This is California, anything goes.” So come to Il Tiramisu to relax. Come to have a good time and good food. When you leave, your experience will not be soon forgotten.

Il Tiramisu is open for lunch Tuesday through Saturday from 11:30 – 2:30PM and dinner Tuesday through Thursday and Sunday from 5:00 – 10:00PM, Friday through Saturday 5:00 – 11:00PM. Reservations recommended and valet available.

Il Tiramisu
13705 Ventura Blvd.
Sherman Oaks, CA 91423
(818) 986-2640

That is not to say the appearance of pretense is lacking. Massimo Ristorante is located in Beverly Hills, after all. In one of the dining rooms, a gigantic picture of Chef Massimo Ormani’s face gazes down from the ceiling. My initial thought was “egomania,” but after sitting down with Chef Ormani, his down-to-earth persona has convinced me otherwise. “It wasn’t my idea,” he says with a bashful laugh. The concept is actually more “cute” than anything else. Imagine being in a pot and looking up as the Chef lifts the lid to look inside and everything will click.

Like many LA restaurants, the limited real estate that Massimo Ristorante has to accommodate its guests is prohibitive, but the establishment does a fine job alleviating the claustrophobia with mirrors, windows, and a high ceiling. Guests are also welcome to enjoy their meals outside for true alfresco dining.

The wine list has a nice mix of Italian and California wines, but only a handful available by the glass. As a nice touch, however, wine by the glass is served in individual carafes allowing the guest to decide how much wine should be in his or her glass. It’s nice to see a restaurant really allow their guest to enjoy the experience of wine, rather than butcher it by over filling the glass.

The menu, which is updated monthly, is well balanced with an assortment of dishes that run the gamut of food groups. What surprised me most were the prices. Everything was reasonable with nothing over $35.

To begin, I had the Minestrone (8.50), fresh seasonal vegetables in a vegetable broth, and my companion had the Insalata Nicoletta (13.50), baby mixed greens and tomatoes with sliced artichoke hearts and a balsamic vinaigrette, named after the actress, Nicolette Sheridan, who frequents the restaurant.

For entrées, I ordered the Linguine All’Isolana (19.75), which was an assortment of seafood tossed with linguine, oregano, and a white wine sauce. My companion ordered the Gnocchi Verdi (18.50), which is Chef Ormani’s signature spinach gnocchi sautéed with porcini mushrooms.

The presentation of the dishes is simple and the flavor of the food is delicate. Neither of those comments are criticisms, just observations. For instance the linguine and the gnocchi were both served in deep bowls. No fancy drizzles decorated the rims. The clam shells were not arranged on top of my noodles in any artistic way. Not even a parsley sprig in the center. At first I was disappointed, wondering where the flair was, but then I realized that the dishes didn’t need additional fluff. The flair was in the simplicity. That comment extends to the flavor as well. Do not expect the overpowering “taste” you find in inferior sauces that are loaded with stereotypical flavors; as if to remind you that you are eating Italian.

Dessert returned me to a state of normalcy. I had the Coppa Gelato “Daniela” (8.00), hazelnut and vanilla bean gelato with fresh whipped cream and toasted almonds served in a martini glass. My companion had the Mele Insabbiate (8.00), warm apple crumble with toasted pecans and vanilla bean gelato. The presentation and the flavor were indulgent as any dessert should be.

As an added bonus, the restaurant offers cooking classes on the last Saturday of each month. Burgeoning chefs can learn from Chef Massimo Ormani in an intimate class of fifteen people, which includes a cooking demonstration, recipes, lunch, and wine.

Lastly, where would any restaurant be without a competent wait-staff? The service at Massimo is perfect. I state that with the authority of someone who has worked as a server in a fine dining restaurant. From the moment I walked in, I felt welcome. Our server, Stacey, recited the specials with expert fluency, coursed our meal with impeccable timing, and provided just enough friendly banter to convince us that we were more than a tip at the end of the meal. Those savvy enough to recognize it will find something remarkable here.

Massimo Ristorante is open seven days a week from 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m. Valet is available. Reservations are recommended.

Massimo Ristorante
9513 Little Santa Monica Blvd.
Beverly Hills, 90210
(310) 273-7588